Monday, September 11, 2017

Norway 2017: Fondsbu, Day two

Whenever we've stayed at the DNT huts, we've met travelers from all over the world. During our hike today, we ran into a solo backpacker from New Zealand and a trio of young men from Israel. It's always interesting to share travel stories. Today, as the weather conditions deteriorated and route finding became increasingly difficult, we were all especially grateful to have each other's company!

We set out prepared for rain, but mostly we had to contend with worsening fog 
After an hour or so, we were joined by a solo backpacker from New Zealand who was making a hut-to-hut circuit
John leading the way again
Amazing that we found the trail junction in all this fog!
Before we parted ways, we had our Kiwi friend take our photo
Solo again
After the junction, we were joined by a trio from Israel who were a little apprehensive about making this treacherous descent across the snow
Safe passage in hand, it was time for some photo fun
Balancing act
Hoping that the clouds would lift so we could see the peaks
Another tricky descent 
The rains finally arrived during our last hour on the trail 
Homeward bound, in the rain
Glad to be back to a warm and dry room!



Norway 2017: Hiking At Fondsbu

Our first stopover in Jotunheimen was at Fondsbu, a backcountry "hytte," or hotel, run by the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT). The lodge is located at the foot of a long lake and surrounded by mountains of 2000 meters and higher. Unfortunately we were unable to see the peaks due to low clouds and fog. But that didn't stop us from venturing out into the mountains!
Upon our arrival at Fondsbu, our hopes were up as we caught a glimpse of late afternoon sunshine
Heading out in the morning, the trail began along the shoreline of Bygdin Lake
We soon started gaining elevation
Plenty of slippery stream crossings made the hike more challenging
Not sure John's physical therapist would approve of this!
High above the treeline, we easily lost the trail and had to find our own way across rocky hillsides
Found a nice lunch spot -- too cold to linger, though!
We basically followed the waterfalls back down the mountain
At last, the lake was in sight again
Trail signs indicate the routes to other backcountry huts
Home is just around the corner!

Sunday, September 10, 2017

Norway 2017: Reindeer on the move

On our way across the mountains from Vinstra towards Jotunheimen National Park, we encountered two different herds of reindeer. John claims that in all his years of driving these roads, he has never seen reindeer in the wild. Must be the season!


The higher mountains in Jotunheimen are already dusted with snow

No red noses, but plenty of red fall foliage

Rudolph?
"Who are you looking at?"
Road Rage!

Norway 2017: Vinstra Rocks!

By chance, we were in Vinstra for the annual "Byfesten," or town festival. It was quite like any other small town street fair, with an assortment of local arts and crafts, food and drink, activities for the kids, and of course a main stage for musical entertainment. The Saturday night concert featured popular Norwegian rock star-turned-crime novelist, Jo Nesbø (Headhunters, and the Harry Hole series). He clearly has a large fan base, with many in the crowd singing and swaying along to what I assume were his "greatest hits."






Norway 2017: Late summer hike in Vinstra


The first hike of our fall trip was in the hills outside of Vinstra, where John's family has a cabin. The timberline is roughly 3000' above sea level. We lucked out with a rare sunny afternoon. Fall colors were just beginning to emerge in the tundra ground cover.

Hiking trails abound in the foothills above the Gudbrandsdalen Valley,
leading into Rondane National Park.
Of course, John isn't one to stick to the established trails!

Rain threatened, but thankfully didn't arrive until we'd returned to the cabin.
White lichen and "reindeer moss" provide a nice contrast to the changing fall colors.


Trails are marked year round for XC skiing
Taking in the tundra panorama

Back on the trail towards home






Norway 2017: Updates from the Road

Welcome back to my blog! The first two weeks of our 2017 trip to Norway are in the books. As usual, I have taken way too many photos to sort through, and have had too little time to post them on the internet -- both signs of a very good start to our fall trip! Here's a sampling to whet (or perhaps, "wet"!) your appetite:
Overlooking Gjende Lake, along the Besseggen Ridge Trail
Ominous weather awaits 
Hiking home in the rain
Following in 1000-year-old footstep,  along the Kongevegen (King's Road)
Norwegian wild blueberries -- like huckleberries, except they grow in the tundra
Enjoying a rare afternoon of sunshine in the hills outside of Vinstra
Balancing act, Jotunheimen National Park
Waterfalls, Jotunheimen National Park
The loneliest job in town: Ticket checker on a rainy afternoon,
at Borgund Stave Church