Norway 2017: Hurtigruten Voyage, Day Two

Thankfully the seas calmed overnight, and we were greeted with sunshine as we circled over the northern-most point of mainland Norway.

Morning outside Nordkapp (the North Cape)

Morning rays

Hiking above Hammerfest

Group shot above Hammerfest

Time to get back on the ship, but happy to have been on solid ground again,
if only for a couple of hours! 

Norway 2017: On Board the Hurtigruten MS Polarlys

For the next five days, our home was on the Hurtigruten's MS Polarlys, one of 14 of the coastal ferries that operate along the west coast of Norway.

Strong winds and heavy seas pounded us as we rounded the top of Norway

Hoping for smoother sailing tomorrow

Our ship (artist's rendering)

Norway 2017: The Adventure Continues...

After a couple of days visiting family and friends in Oslo, we embarked on the next phase of our adventure. From Oslo, we flew north to Kirkenes, near the Russian border, where we boarded the coastal ferry for a five day journey down the west coast to Bergen.

Boarding under sunny skies in Oslo

Fair skies continued over central Norway...

Landing at Kirkenes, two thousand kilometers to the north,
the skies were unfortunately not so fair.

Norway 2017: Snapshots from Oslo

Just finished a few days playing tourist in Oslo...

 Viking shadows

The Royal Palace 

Subway Scream

Quiet afternoon along the Oslo Fjord

Norway 2017: Besseggen Ridge in the clouds

After four hours, we finally reached the bottom of the infamous Besseggen climb. A quick stop for photos and lunch, and we headed up into the clouds.

John taking in the panorama

The ridge separates Bettvatnet Lake, which we had walked along on the left, and Gjende Lake on the right, almost 1000 meters below

Overlooking Gjende Lake

Another view, with Gjende on the left and Bessvatnet on the right

We made it! But the hard part is just beginning...

One more group photo before heading up the ridge

Red "T"s marked the route

Still climbing, into the clouds

Eventually we lost sight of both lakes

Last glimpse of Gjende Lake (lower right)

Still climbing

That is actually looking DOWN!

Sign indicating the highest point along the trail, 1745 meters above sea level

It's all downhill from here -- if only we could see the trail!

We finally re-emerged from the clouds once we returned to the lake shore, then followed the creek home. An epic day!

Norway 2017: Besseggen 1: Bessheim to Bessvatnet

The hike up Besseggen Ridge in Jotunheimen National Park is considered one of the most spectacular hikes in the world. It is certainly one of the most popular, and not for the faint of heart. After much arm-twisting, I finally convinced John to hike it with me, even though he had already hiked it many times in his younger days. The low clouds and threat of rain today ensured that the trail would not be too crowded. For the first four hours, we didn't see a single soul.

Starting off behind our hotel in Bessheim.

The trail followed a creek, past numerous waterfalls, until reaching the shores of Bessvatnet Lake. 

At the junction

Fall colors lined the lake shore

Fishing is popular here in summer and winter, but not today

Lonely fish nets 

Lonely fishing cabins

We continued hiking five miles onward along the lake towards the next junction

The last mile or so was strewn with slick granite boulders -- a preview of what awaits us on Besseggen Ridge

Are we there yet? The gap in the clouds ahead is our destination for the start of the  infamous Besseggen climb.
(To be continued...)

Norway 2017: Detours

Whenever time permits, we prefer exploring the smaller, slower mountain roads, avoiding the much faster highways and tunnels. Why? This scene says it all:

Heading southwest from Beitostølen, Norway