Norway 2017: Night Lights and Night Life, in Tromsø

Our second night inside the Arctic Circle, we were really hoping to catch the aurora borealis, especially after enjoying sunny skies during the afternoon. By evening, however, the clouds had returned, along with more rain. But the rain didn't dampen our spirits, and we ventured ashore to check out the Saturday night scene in Tromsø.

Craig and Holly looking for northern lights

Tromsø is the home of the Mack Brewery, the northernmost brewery in the world.
Although the tasting room was closed by the time we arrived in town, there were no shortage of other bars still open, and bursting with college kids. Luckily we managed to find an "age appropriate" pub to sample the local brews.

John and our new friend Bjørn debate the merits of early retirement 

Back to the ship

Norway 2017: Above the Arctic Circle

The days are shortening, and the sun (when we can see it!) is at a relatively low angle, making for interesting and dramatic light over the mountains and fjords.

The ever changing view from our deck

Low clouds before sunset

Panorama

Norway 2017: Hurtigruten Voyage, Day Two

Thankfully the seas calmed overnight, and we were greeted with sunshine as we circled over the northern-most point of mainland Norway.

Morning outside Nordkapp (the North Cape)

Morning rays

Hiking above Hammerfest

Group shot above Hammerfest

Time to get back on the ship, but happy to have been on solid ground again,
if only for a couple of hours! 

Norway 2017: On Board the Hurtigruten MS Polarlys

For the next five days, our home was on the Hurtigruten's MS Polarlys, one of 14 of the coastal ferries that operate along the west coast of Norway.

Strong winds and heavy seas pounded us as we rounded the top of Norway

Hoping for smoother sailing tomorrow

Our ship (artist's rendering)

Norway 2017: The Adventure Continues...

After a couple of days visiting family and friends in Oslo, we embarked on the next phase of our adventure. From Oslo, we flew north to Kirkenes, near the Russian border, where we boarded the coastal ferry for a five day journey down the west coast to Bergen.

Boarding under sunny skies in Oslo

Fair skies continued over central Norway...

Landing at Kirkenes, two thousand kilometers to the north,
the skies were unfortunately not so fair.

Norway 2017: Snapshots from Oslo

Just finished a few days playing tourist in Oslo...

 Viking shadows

The Royal Palace 

Subway Scream

Quiet afternoon along the Oslo Fjord

Norway 2017: Besseggen Ridge in the clouds

After four hours, we finally reached the bottom of the infamous Besseggen climb. A quick stop for photos and lunch, and we headed up into the clouds.

John taking in the panorama

The ridge separates Bettvatnet Lake, which we had walked along on the left, and Gjende Lake on the right, almost 1000 meters below

Overlooking Gjende Lake

Another view, with Gjende on the left and Bessvatnet on the right

We made it! But the hard part is just beginning...

One more group photo before heading up the ridge

Red "T"s marked the route

Still climbing, into the clouds

Eventually we lost sight of both lakes

Last glimpse of Gjende Lake (lower right)

Still climbing

That is actually looking DOWN!

Sign indicating the highest point along the trail, 1745 meters above sea level

It's all downhill from here -- if only we could see the trail!

We finally re-emerged from the clouds once we returned to the lake shore, then followed the creek home. An epic day!